How to be reborn from the ashes of Dani Ochoa without Montia or any ‘stars’ and more ‘natural’ than ever

As the phoenix is ​​reborn from its ashes. literally. Why Dani Ochoa (Without him mate gastronomy) and Montia (natural cuisine, natural wines and km0 reference in Madrid) resurfaced from petrikos, A year ago (May 8, 2021), when the state of alarm ended and the Madrid hotel industry began to receive foreign customers, San Lorenzo de El Escorial Dining Room -CWith a waiting list of 100 people and one Michelin star, it burned to the ground in a fire.,

The fire disrupted the plans that Dani and his partner Luis Moreno had hatched: Convert Montia headquarters in a second, more casual brand and opening another Montia in a larger location, Whose work had already started.

sala s de esta
The room has a Nordic aesthetic: leather chairs on wood, fur…

“The day we signed the loan, it burned down. I don’t know if it was luck… Maybe the place that gave us so much I did not want become another brand and i want to finish eh it’s history”, remembers Dani Ochoa today, with a new Montia—opened in January—already at full speed, a few meters from the old who was in active 10 years

In this new life The public reaction could not have been better. “It was opening up and filling started and after eight months of stopping, it’s appreciated and lets out a lot of oxygen. Weekends are very popular,” Ochoa proudly admits.

But getting there hasn’t been easy, and Dani has gotten used to it. Kick Off the Northern Sierra Madrid’s Mt, “For a while we both wanted to keep the projects, but in the end, it was not possible. My partner left and I was left alone,

The kitchen, where you can see the team working, is the backbone of the space.
The kitchen, where you can see the team working, is the backbone of the space.

Which GPS, with the new coordinates Recalculate the route. “It’s been a tough year. I’ve had to look for financing even under the stones to complete the project”. And, among the stones and the ashes, the resurrection has come, as Dani is going on the march.”My Comfort Zone Is Circumstances That Are A Little Tough, My friends and the people I work with know that I feel happy when I see a hill and not a flat road.”

Contina: “en montia” There was a time when it was so easy, everything was perfect, and we ended up evaluating the good reviews, the waiting list of 100 people, the whole three months… Let’s treat it as normal. But all that has happened has made me appreciate it All this is the result of 10 years of hard work, doing things well”… And a little luck too: “There must be moments in life when luck smiles at you. I don’t know it’s a cosmic balanceWe had good luck in the end and despite everything going on with Montias. It’s always been great for us.”,

Bitter almond crunch with smoked trout and capers.
Bitter almond crunch with smoked trout and capers.

they have been left behind Months of “Fear”Because I didn’t have a mattress. But once the restaurant opened and rolled, I see everything very clearly and the future is very beautiful”. Because “we are more montia than ever. Not a single wall of the old campus is left. What is built here is too personal, even being alone in the project made it even more . It is one hundred percent charity. Dani and the rest of the team; The boys, really, have been with me by a pin”.

Sliced ​​Beef, Carajillo with Barbecue Sauce and Watercress and Mustard Cream.
Sliced ​​Beef, Carajillo with Barbecue Sauce and Watercress and Mustard Cream.

They have painted, they have carried sacks of earth… “We have wrapped each other”And that’s milk. I am most proud of my team”, recognizes the chef whose “The story is about a typical bad student who becomes a cook and discovers that he likes it, that it is not bad and that he begins to be valued by classmates and teachers”, he says via biographical review (which we meet: Trained at Mugaritz, Other Between restaurants; with chef Luis Moreno, the revelation chef at Madrid Fusion 2014, and estrela Michelin, between 2015 and 2021,

Specification so far, because Dani has his own style: risky chef, non-conformist, champion of local produce and sustainability, Committed to the land long before these concepts became fashionable. “It is a pleasure to work with the producers here on a daily basis; we have internalized it and it comes naturally to us.” Thus, the present Montia turned out to be “In a certain sense a km0 more radical. building construction; raw materials, furniture; crockery, everything sales of the people of the area. and also Me and the boys have made part of the restaurant with our own hands.”

Grilled Sucked Lamb, Game and Asurilla Stew.
Grilled Sucked Lamb, Game and Asurilla Stew.

It has two dining rooms with a Nordic feel (wooden, fur on leather chairs, fireplace) and, The kitchen seen as the backbone through which you have to pass to move from one place to another. In addition, it has a small jewel, An interior stair garden with sprouts and aromatic herbs. “Vegetables are small to plant, unless they’re the chili type. Sprouts work well for us, plants with fast-growing leaves, like nasturtiums or escaroles …moreWe have harvested celery and parsnips… This is the first year and we are in the ‘trial and error’ phase.”

pie sorbet
Pine sorghum, spinach and black garlic creaminess and raisins.

Every day and every dish here is special, Like the boys of Montia (eight in the kitchen, who remember they serve up the dishes for the meal, and four in the dining room),”collectors and farmers” who go to the fields and mountains in search of herbs, flowers, mushrooms…,

area stations and providers from what they bring (“We’ve started working Milk-feeding lamb reared in the village“) create “a pure, natural and wild dish”, with dishes such as bouello de gizzard and sea urchins, pancakes with pickled crabs; Snail, Basil and Worm, Herbs from the green area, its cuisine and the garden; dorayaki Lamprey and apple with rosemary; Smoked Trout and Capers with Bitter Almond Crunch; Asparagus with Smoked Ham Hollandaise Foam, Trout Roe, Celery and More, Feeding Lamb Guriato; Serrano Wagyu, Hyacinth and Mustard… and that’s itDani’s goal has always been to eat sawmills for us.

Field of green la royale, fennel and herbs from the garden.
Field of green la royale, fennel and herbs from the garden.

“Our line is very clear, whether you like it or not, it’s another matter: a kitchen with natural ingredients. Very few stories here come in gelling agent or powder form.” This closeness with nature is embodied two less tasting: Long (95 Euros, 45 Euros for wine pairings) and XL, with two more passes that include mythical callas of the house (110 Euro and 52 Euro harmonics). “We now offer two versions, a more contemporary one with fried and crunchy tripe and a traditional one, which we can’t take away or feel.”

Dani has created a universe corresponding to him. “From the moment you enter, until you leave, everything belongs to Montia, from the drink to the bath”… or Natural wines, whether they are wood or leather, are a hallmark of the house as well as the chairs. “We have references between 300 and 400, from all small producers and friends. We keep them in the cellar, arranged according to the dishes. I like to switch pairings and, every day, we try wine with the dish, for example, the point of salt in a recipe can change the harmony”.

They only offer natural wines.

Even if they made their own, fresh, young, fruit. “They brought me grapes and we all laughed at them, the old and new Montia boys, the staff members… even my son. It was a great day and I think all that good energy got transmitted to the wine, which turned out to be surprisingly good.They call it Tinaza, because they rest in them, and they have produced three: a Godello and air white; a red with bobble from Valencia and Malvar from Madrid and a semi-sweet overripe Garnacha; left some demijones sunny and cool (in bad weather), a ver qu sale”.

Second room with garden view.
Second room with garden view.

Since we are talking about waiting, what do you expect from this step?
There have been times this year when I was hopeful that I would walk out of the hole and get my team out of there. Now my goal is to enjoy cooking, see how it develops and do things better every day. We have a lot of potential going forward in this space; In the old one we reached the roof, and here we are starting.
but in to start Things have fallen by the wayside, for example, Michelin stars.
It was expected. He called me and I explained that we had a joint in ruins and another that had just burned down. It was impossible for them to come to us before the guide took off, Montia was not there at the time there is, What’s more, the correction was delayed and we ended it in December.
Will you get it back this year?
I don’t know, really. For those of us away from the capital, I know this can be a recourse, but I believe more in day-to-day, continual work and improvement, rather than in the appearance of a critic or guide. And save me ass customer is day to day.
This is the restaurant you wanted?
Yes, it’s perfect for this moment in my life. Secondly, he always had in mind to open another place in the countryside with vegetable gardens and animals.
Have you ever considered moving Montaía away from Madrid?
No, but I won’t dismiss the idea either. It is clear to me that I would never take it to a city, but I would never leave it in a mountain, mountain, countryside or river environment.
New Montia Presents Two Versions of Its Famous Trip Here
The new Montia offers two versions of their famous corns, here’s the contemporary one.

Accommodation to which another element must be added: music. ,Radio 3 for work and a playlist with songs pulling folk to the service. There have been services that they worked And, after changing the music, everything started flowing”. amazing work of pearl jam, Dani Ochoa, who knows the Montea universe well, Dixit,

Montia: John of Austria, 7c (San Lorenzo de l’Escorial). Reservations on 91 133 69 88 and on the restaurant’s website. Closed on Monday and Tuesday.

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