Luca Gravalos: “If we all go to Mercadona we lose the essence of the neighborhood”

  • Chef Luca Gravalos, the cook that will make you fall in love with cauliflower
  • Restaurant Gastronomic Mantica, The Most Delicate Rioja

Already as a child, Revelation chefLuca Gravalos (Logaru, La Rioja, January 6, 1989) with her grandparents in the market holding hands. “And I tell my grandparents because they They always went and still go shopping together, like a pack“, she says with a smile. She takes inspiration from Ana Mari to customize her recipes. “I make my own versions of the recipes and it drives her crazy.” Di Marino says she passed them on to her granddaughter. Very proud, but there is no way he will taste the sweetness of his vegetable, and it tastes very sweet.” I want to prepare a traditional roast for my grandfather with his baked potatoes, without much thought”.

This is a more traditional generation, he justifies, because they, in their thirties, have a lot of More open to trying new flavors and enjoy the experience. “My grandfather is not very educated, because he moved from his mother’s delicious food to my grandmother. But that doesn’t happen anymore…”, he laughed, knowing that in the current whirlpool, where we all live here run from there, every time there is more John Palomos Among them “I cook it, I eat it”.

That doesn’t mean you take the time to shop well, which results in great food. definitely includes lifetime market, which inspires “creativity” in them, he says. “Whenever I go down for some wild asparagus I come back with three more things that weren’t on my list and that’s because places like these inspire and everything enters your eyes, He slides around Anton Martin’s stalls in Atocha. “The truth is I’d love to have more time to go through them all. I’ve been in Madrid for a year involved in Gastronomic Mantica,” she tells Fernando at her fruit and vegetable stall.

fear of losing m
He’s afraid to lose sight of the magical bustle and smell of markets: “It’s important to feed your neighbors.”Antonio Heredia

passion for white asparagus

The shopkeeper and the cook exchanged impressions of the increase in the shopping cart with the war. How could it be otherwise, this is the first corner he looks into. “Do you have white asparagus? I bring them from my native Kalhora. I wait for you all year“. A personal commitment that emerged in complete confinement, when no one gave work to small producers.

Supermarkets were something else. “If we all go to Mercadona we lose the essence of the neighborhood. It is important to feed your neighbors. That this flow of movement should be maintained so that there is movement and life in the area. We have to give them that support or they will disappear,” he reflects with Fernando, who has very few clients these days. flight of holy week.

All gravelos recipes feature vegetables from appetizers and side dishes to desserts. “I always have onions, red peppers and green chilies.” when they are in season, There’s no shortage of peas, artichokes, and white asparagus. “This is wonderful dish,” he defines, dismissing the idea that vegetables are boring.

a situation of its own

Although she prefers to sit at tables and enjoy gastronomic restaurants, she loves the idea of ​​eating at market stalls so much that she has dared to launch her own: Nalla Burgers, and Barcelona, where you have a lot of fun but the bureaucracy is more complicated. share Tried with his brother Pablo, which inspired her to cook, because she was more than food. “I go every day, and that stays, that’s what street cooking is for, and I go back to Mantica. We’re a tandem. It’s non-stop,” he says of the rest of the team. He even eats with this orchestra, where everything has to sound holistically. And not always beat. “Sometimes they ask me for macaroni, of course. It’s something else at home, my pantry is a garden“, again.

The customer profile may be similar but the expectations are vastly different. “It’s more casual and faster service than what the restaurant enjoys, but we do great with burgers, which started with Delivery, “We chose the market because it is close and stalls because of the feeling that people experience from the moment they pick up the product.” They have more cooperation than competition. “It’s another role, because Next Door shares your battle from morning till night, Your experience lives on in a more cohesive one”, explains Gravalos, who wears his hamburger restaurant’s sweatshirt.

happy to try

grow
Gravalos “sneaks” at Fernando’s fruit and vegetable stall in the Anton Martin market.Antonio Heredia

Luca loves the hustle and bustle of Madrid. “Here I can do on Monday what I would only do back home on Saturday.” When he finally has a day off, he doesn’t think twice and knows all the restaurants he can. ,It’s a fantasy that so many sites open up. We chefs learn a lot when we eat!” She also enjoys the revitalization of markets, where there’s live music, graffiti artists work or she drinks with her friends. “It’s the perfect place because Each gets food from a stall and we gather at a table. So we don’t have to agree. A surprise and guaranteed success.”

If you travel, go for specialty socks as well. “I practice the famous ‘wherever you go, do what you see’ and try the native. Recently I was in four hands with the cooks at Lienzo and I got lost in it Central Market of ValenciaWhich I think is cruel.” Another perennial favorite is La Boquera, At Las Ramblas in Barcelona. “Their diversity is unparalleled.” And like Neruda, who dedicated an ode to tuna at the market, Luca Gravalos has a passion for fresh fish, a product she can’t resist, with permission from the garden. “That fresh-from-the-sea smell makes me want to cook immediately.”

If they want to win him over to the stomach, ask for a good stew. He praises Martin Berasategui, “for being able to”. Give continuity to a complex kitchen like yours And in many other places”.

short tasting (long)

Despite the fact that this is one of the deepest traditions in our country, recently there has been a lot of discussion about whether the menu of the day should be eliminated. Gravlos thinks there’s a customer for every type of menu. “The quality menu of the day is great, but A tasting menu also tells you about the location, the region, and makes dining an experience.,

However, there is also some controversy with the length of the tasting menu. There are people who think that if it is so widespread then it cannot be enjoyed. Should there be a limit to such experience? “I like to visit other houses and each dish tells a story to me. I am one hundred percent in favor of a gastronomic experience full”, echoed.

She agrees with Ferran Adri: “It’s hard to find staff, but it’s true that in my dining house, more than a few employees, I feel like my family. We’re getting A very cohesive team and it grows every day”.

Diploma from the School of Hospitality in Benasque (Huesca), he himself has worked with such greats as Beracegui, lvaro Salazar or tristarred Danny Garcia. He said that the exercises he could not do could be supplemented by reading. Roncero has opened its own school and the Montenevado brand has established the HAM campus. “Steps are being made with courses and degrees that are being developed across Spain. Of course we still have a lot to be professional in this field, but we are on the right track, With love and effort, I believe we will be more and more professional.”

Grevalos says goodbye as soon as he arrives. To continue innovation in the given Ryojan Garden A Repsol Sun for Your Grandmother Or make your own sauces and buns for your hamburgers. They have recognized that it is difficult to start projects in the capital and there is no rest. He doesn’t complain. He keeps on plotting from one side to the other.

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